Kundan vs Polki vs American Diamond: What's the Difference?

Walk into any jewellery shop in Mumbai and you will hear all three words used in the same sentence. Kundan, polki and American diamond are not interchangeable — they are different stones, set in different ways, and they suit different occasions. Here is the plain version.

What is kundan?

Kundan is a setting technique, not a stone. In traditional kundan work, a stone is held in place by thin layers of highly refined, almost pure gold pressed around it — no prongs, no claws. The technique originated in Rajasthan and was refined under Mughal patronage, which is why kundan reads as the most ceremonial of the three.

The stones used are uncut and flat-backed, with a milky, slightly opaque white appearance rather than sparkle. In fashion jewellery, kundan-style pieces use uncut glass or crystal stones set into a gold-toned brass or alloy base, giving the same flat, layered look at a fraction of the cost.

Best for: brides, wedding ceremonies, and anything where you want the jewellery to look traditional rather than modern.

What is polki?

Polki uses uncut diamonds — stones in their natural form, polished but not faceted. Because the stone is real diamond rather than glass, polki has more depth and a soft internal glow that kundan does not, though it still does not sparkle the way a cut diamond does.

Polki is set in a similar way to kundan, so at a glance the two look alike. The differences show up in cost (real polki is expensive) and in how the stone catches light — polki has a subtle fire, kundan is flatter and milkier.

Best for: heirloom bridal jewellery. In fashion jewellery, “polki-style” describes the look, not the material.

What is American diamond?

American diamond is cubic zirconia (CZ) — a lab-made stone, cut and faceted exactly like a diamond. It is the brightest and most modern-looking of the three, with sharp, obvious sparkle.

Because CZ is faceted, it reads as contemporary rather than traditional. That is why American diamond dominates party wear, reception jewellery and everyday studs, while kundan dominates the wedding day itself.

Best for: receptions, sangeets, parties, office wear, and anything worn with western or indo-western outfits.

Quick comparison

• Look: Kundan is flat and milky. Polki has soft internal depth. American diamond sparkles brightly.
• Feel: Kundan and polki pieces are usually heavier and broader. CZ pieces are lighter and finer.
• Occasion: Kundan and polki for ceremonies. CZ for receptions and daily wear.
• Cost: Real polki is the most expensive by a wide margin. Kundan-style and CZ fashion jewellery sit at similar, affordable price points.

How to tell them apart in a photograph

Look at the edges of the stones. Kundan stones have irregular, soft outlines and a visible band of metal pressed around them. American diamond stones have sharp geometric edges and sit in prongs or channels. If the stones sparkle in every direction, it is CZ. If they glow rather than sparkle, it is kundan or polki.

Which should you buy?

If you are buying one bridal set, go kundan — it photographs as traditional and works with lehengas and heavy sarees. If you are buying something you will wear repeatedly to parties and functions, go American diamond — it is lighter, brighter and less occasion-locked. Many buyers own both, because they genuinely do different jobs.

At Saloni Fashion Jewellery in Santacruz West, Mumbai, we stock both: kundan bridal necklace sets for wedding wear and American diamond studs and party pieces for everything else. Retailers can WhatsApp +91 98705 89560 for wholesale rates.